Digital cameras give you extraordinary control over images. Most digital cameras today have megapixels galore, a large LCD, and fairly long battery life. Among the leading brands available are Canon, Casio, Fujifilm, HP, Kodak, Nikon, Olympus, Samsung, and Sony.
Here are some of the key features to look out for:
Megapixels
The first step is to determine how much flexibility to enlarge images do you need. If you want to make 4x6 snapshots, a camera with 5 or 6 megapixel resolution should be fine. To enlarge more, you want a camera with a resolution of six megapixels or greater.
Exposure and Composition
Cameras meant for automatic point-and-shoot photos with a 3x zoom lens, will serve casual shooters as well as dedicated hobbyists much of the time.
Optical Zoom
Optical zoom range of 5x to 10x or more lets you bring distant outdoor subjects close and lets you shoot candid portraits without getting right in your subject’s face.
Size and Weight
If possible, try cameras at the store before you buy. That way, you will know which one fits your hand best and can be securely gripped.
Battery Type and Life
All digital cameras run on rechargeable batteries, either an expensive battery pack or a set of AAs. The best-performing cameras offer at least 250 shots on a charge, while the worst manage under 100.
Camera Speed
Most point-and-shoot cameras let you shoot an image every few seconds, but a few make you wait five seconds or more.
Author
Abd Rahaman Rasid
I am Malaysian Blogger
mansid@yahoo.com
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Thursday, May 21, 2009
Saturday, September 27, 2008
5 Tips to Creative Photography
Creative photography is a mix of many ingredients; art and technology, skill and patience, cold mechanical know how and individual flair. There is no doubt the advent of digital camera has made photography much easier for the average person. And while it is true you can often “point and shoot” to achieve a reasonable results, it is not that hard using a little technique and “know how” to improve your photography substantially.
As a beginner, wouldn’t it be nice if the whole thing could be explained with a simple set of rules that are easy to under-stand? If only someone can just tell you what aperture to use in a given situation, or how to structure a composition to get the best results every time.
In photography, you will find that some rules apply in the beginning, while some last a lifetime.
The trick is to understand when the rules apply or don’t apply. This knowledge comes with experience, and gives you individuality as a photographer.
An avid photographer based in Kuala Lumpur, Jessica Low said one of the ways to know if you are ready to take good photographs is when your mind is calm and you are connected with the subject. “A good photographer is always in tuned with the camera. You will know the right moment to click when the picture resonates with your soul. To put it simply, when your eyes meet the subject and your heart stops, that is the moment to click,” said Low, adding it is equally important to find an environment that inspires you.
Low who takes portraits said the best moment to photograph people in when they are not thinking, or when they are not too self-conscious. "Generally a good picture has a humanistic touch and feels like some soul has been captured in it, and not just a two dimensional thing.
“Don’t think! Or your picture will lose its true essence,” Low said, adding most beginners do not pay enough attention or take time to recognise their feelings. Last but not least, a good picture brings great joy and satisfaction. It is a document, a happy reminder of past events and a catalyst for your emotions.
Here are five easy tips on how to improve your photography, and shoot like a pro:
1. Think about composition
Always try your best to compose your pictures correctly at the time you take the photo, by cropping tightly and removing unwanted elements from your photo. Many people are tempted not to worry about composition, thinking they will simply edit the photo on their computer. However, cropping your image on the computer reduces image detail, and your pictures lose sharpness and overall quality.
2. Get close to your subject, fill the frame
A common mistake made by beginners is allowing the subject to get lost in the background. If you are taking a photo of someone, get as close to them as possible. You can do this by moving closer to them or by using optical zoom. Don’t be afraid to zoom in to remove distracting backgrounds.
3. Avoid placing the subject dead centre
A boring photograph usually has the subject exactly in the centre. One way around this is to mentally divide your image into thirds, and place your subjects along these imaginary one-third lines. You will be surprised at what a difference this can make.
The rule of thirds is an excellent guide for a beginner learning about composition. In simple terms, it divides your photo into three parts, vertically and horizontally. The dividing lines are the best places to position long objects in a photo (like trees and horizon lines). The points where the lines intersect are the most effective places to position smaller objects for most impact.
Photos that are taken according to the Rule Of Thirds appear balanced and satisfy your natural sense of visual order and simply look ‘right’.
4. Draw the viewer into the photo
Want to create photos that draw the viewers into photo? One technique is to use leading lines such as roads or fence lines, natural frames, such as door ways, to lead the viewer’s eye to the subject.
5. Consider lighting when taking a photo
Most of the time you can trust your lightmeter which indicates your photo is well exposed.
Many beginners overlook that lighting plays an important part in photography. While professionals can afford the latest lighting equipment, there is a lot beginners can do to improve their photographs.
Try taking photographs at different times of day. For example , early morning offers opportunities for taking dramatic images.
When indoors use window light. Avoid taking photos in harsh, bright conditions, particularly in the middle of the day.
One of the first principles of landscape photography is that outdoor photos should be taken in the early morning or late afternoon.
The softness and warm colour of the sunlight at these times add beauty and character to almost any scene.
It also creates much lower contrast, allowing you to avoid harsh shadows and over-exposure in your photos.
Source: 1klassifieds, New Straits Times, September 22, 2008
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As a beginner, wouldn’t it be nice if the whole thing could be explained with a simple set of rules that are easy to under-stand? If only someone can just tell you what aperture to use in a given situation, or how to structure a composition to get the best results every time.
In photography, you will find that some rules apply in the beginning, while some last a lifetime.
The trick is to understand when the rules apply or don’t apply. This knowledge comes with experience, and gives you individuality as a photographer.
An avid photographer based in Kuala Lumpur, Jessica Low said one of the ways to know if you are ready to take good photographs is when your mind is calm and you are connected with the subject. “A good photographer is always in tuned with the camera. You will know the right moment to click when the picture resonates with your soul. To put it simply, when your eyes meet the subject and your heart stops, that is the moment to click,” said Low, adding it is equally important to find an environment that inspires you.
Low who takes portraits said the best moment to photograph people in when they are not thinking, or when they are not too self-conscious. "Generally a good picture has a humanistic touch and feels like some soul has been captured in it, and not just a two dimensional thing.
“Don’t think! Or your picture will lose its true essence,” Low said, adding most beginners do not pay enough attention or take time to recognise their feelings. Last but not least, a good picture brings great joy and satisfaction. It is a document, a happy reminder of past events and a catalyst for your emotions.
Here are five easy tips on how to improve your photography, and shoot like a pro:
1. Think about composition
Always try your best to compose your pictures correctly at the time you take the photo, by cropping tightly and removing unwanted elements from your photo. Many people are tempted not to worry about composition, thinking they will simply edit the photo on their computer. However, cropping your image on the computer reduces image detail, and your pictures lose sharpness and overall quality.
2. Get close to your subject, fill the frame
A common mistake made by beginners is allowing the subject to get lost in the background. If you are taking a photo of someone, get as close to them as possible. You can do this by moving closer to them or by using optical zoom. Don’t be afraid to zoom in to remove distracting backgrounds.
3. Avoid placing the subject dead centre
A boring photograph usually has the subject exactly in the centre. One way around this is to mentally divide your image into thirds, and place your subjects along these imaginary one-third lines. You will be surprised at what a difference this can make.
The rule of thirds is an excellent guide for a beginner learning about composition. In simple terms, it divides your photo into three parts, vertically and horizontally. The dividing lines are the best places to position long objects in a photo (like trees and horizon lines). The points where the lines intersect are the most effective places to position smaller objects for most impact.
Photos that are taken according to the Rule Of Thirds appear balanced and satisfy your natural sense of visual order and simply look ‘right’.
4. Draw the viewer into the photo
Want to create photos that draw the viewers into photo? One technique is to use leading lines such as roads or fence lines, natural frames, such as door ways, to lead the viewer’s eye to the subject.
5. Consider lighting when taking a photo
Most of the time you can trust your lightmeter which indicates your photo is well exposed.
Many beginners overlook that lighting plays an important part in photography. While professionals can afford the latest lighting equipment, there is a lot beginners can do to improve their photographs.
Try taking photographs at different times of day. For example , early morning offers opportunities for taking dramatic images.
When indoors use window light. Avoid taking photos in harsh, bright conditions, particularly in the middle of the day.
One of the first principles of landscape photography is that outdoor photos should be taken in the early morning or late afternoon.
The softness and warm colour of the sunlight at these times add beauty and character to almost any scene.
It also creates much lower contrast, allowing you to avoid harsh shadows and over-exposure in your photos.
Source: 1klassifieds, New Straits Times, September 22, 2008
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Friday, July 4, 2008
Digital Versus Optical Zoom
With so many new cameras available at great prices for the holidays, you'll undoubtedly be making comparisons on all sorts of features. One question I recently got was about the difference between an optical and a digital zoom.
First, the camera basics: A lens focuses the light from the scene onto the sensor. The sensor used to be a piece of film, but in digital cameras it's a light-sensitive circuit. People are often comparing cameras by their sensors (it's the sensors that are measured by their megapixels), but the lens is an equal partner in producing an image, and lenses haven't received much critical attention.
With a zoom lens, you can change the field of view without having to walk closer to or farther from the scene. When a zoom lens is in its "wide" setting, you get the largest area of the scene, and as you zoom "in" you continually look at smaller and smaller areas of the scene, revealing more detail.
Most of today's consumer digital cameras have an optical lens zoom. The range of the lens is the ratio of the length of the lens when zoomed in all the way versus its length on the widest setting. Zoom lenses with 3X or 5X range are very common. The greater the range of the lens, the more options you have each time you take a picture—zoom out to show the whole family group, or zoom in for a head shot of the wailing baby. Zoom out for a mountain scene, or zoom in on the wildlife.
Because today's cameras work with digital images (they actually contain a small computer), it's possible to use digital image processing to zoom in a bit more once the optical zoom has reached its limit. Typical digital zooms give you an additional 2X of range. The problem is that the image processing has to work hard to create more information than was originally present in the sensor. Digital zooms often make images look pixilated since they are putting in "the zoom" with digital effects and not a real lens.
The zoom you really want to pay money for is the optical zoom. And don't be misled by thinking the two are cumulative. A 3X optical zoom with a 2X digital zoom does not mean that you're getting a 6X zoom. My advice: When comparing cameras, only pay attention to the optical zoom—it's the one that you'll be using 99.9 percent of the time.
If the optical zoom didn't go quite far enough, you can do a digital zoom afterwards, using a photo retouching program. Doing it afterwards gives you more control and more time. You can see the tradeoffs of detail versus quality on your computer's large screen, whereas you can't tell what you are losing in the tiny screen of the camera.
Source:
http://tech.yahoo.com/blog/raskin/5777
Composing a Digital Photo with the Rule of Thirds
The position of your subject matter within a picture is one of the most important decisions you make when composing a digital photo. Whether you can move the subject or objects around, change your position, or wait until everything moves to the right spot, you should constantly be aware of how your subject matter is arranged. Photographers often consciously or unconsciously follow a guideline called the Rule of Thirds. It's simply a way of dividing your picture horizontally and vertically into thirds. The best place to position important subject matter is often at one of the points located one-third of the way from the top, bottom, or sides of the frame.
Placing important objects at imaginary junction points
Follow these steps to compose your pictures effectively using the Rule of Thirds:
1. Divide the frame into thirds horizontally and vertically.
Above all, you want to avoid having your subject matter centered. By imagining the frame in thirds, you automatically begin thinking of those ideal, off-center positions.
2. Try to have important objects, particularly your center of interest, at one of the four intersections of the imaginary lines that divide the picture (see Figure 1).
Following this guideline typically arranges objects in a pleasing way.
3. Avoid having objects at the edge of a picture unless the part that isn't shown isn't important.
If you're taking a picture of a group of people, cropping out part of the building they're standing next to or pruning put half a tree that's not an important part of the composition is okay.
Figure 1: To divide your image into thirds, picture the imaginary lines shown on this image.
When to break the Rule of Thirds
Sometimes, you'll want to break the Rule of Thirds. There are almost as many exceptions to the rule as there are good reasons to apply it, which is why the rule should be considered only a guideline. Think of the Rule of Thirds as a lane marker on a highway. Sometimes you'll want to stay within the markers. Other times, like when you see an obstruction in the road, you'll want to wander outside the lines.
You might want to ignore the Rule of Thirds when:
>>Your main subject matter is too large to fit comfortably at one of the imaginary intersection points. You might find that positioning an object at the "correct" location crops it at the top, bottom, or side. Move it a bit to another point in your composition if you need to see the whole thing.
>>Centering the image would help illustrate a concept. Perhaps you want to show your subject surrounded on all sides by adversity or a threatening environment. Placing the subject at one of the intersection points implies motion or direction, as if the subject were about to flee the picture entirely. However, putting the center of interest in the very center of the picture gives the subject nowhere to hide.
>>You want to show symmetry. Centering a symmetrically oriented subject that's located in a symmetrically oriented background can produce a harmonious, geometric pattern that is pleasing, even if it is a bit static. If the subject itself makes you think of motion, a square image can even boast a bit of "movement," as shown in Figure 2.
Some compositional guidelines
A photo composition creates an entire world for the viewer to explore. You won't want to destroy the illusion by calling attention to the rest of the universe outside the frame. Here's how to orient people and other objects in a picture:
>>If your subjects are people, animals, statues, or anything that you think of as having a front end and back end, make sure they are either facing the camera or facing into the frame rather than out of it.
If a person seems to be looking out of a picture, rather than somewhere within it, viewers will spend more time wondering what the person is looking at than examining the actual person.
>>If objects in the frame are moving or pointed in a particular direction, make sure they are heading into the frame rather than out of it.
A stationary automobile, a windmill, a palm tree bent over by a strong wind, anything with a sense of direction to it should be facing into the frame for the same reason that a person should be looking into it.
>>Add extra space in front of any fast-moving object (such as a race car) so that the object has somewhere to go while remaining in the frame.
If an object is moving, having a little more space in the frame in front of it is best so that the viewer doesn't get the impression that it's on its way out of view. In Figure 2, for example, you wouldn't want to crop the image any more tightly on the left because you'd need to leave room for the speeding ball.
Figure 2: At left, the main subject is headed out of the frame. At right, she is headed into the frame, even if the ball is on its way out.
Source:
http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/composing-a-digital-photo-with-the-rule-of-thirds/153015
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Getting to Know Digital Camera Categories
Which type of digital camera is right for you? Digital cameras fall into several overlapping categories, which are usually defined by the number of pixels they can capture, lens type, availability of manual controls, add-on accessories, and other features. Specifications that define a category change over time. Point-and-shoot digital cameras once had 640 x 480 to 1024 x 768 resolution. Today, even the most basic digital cameras have 2MP (megapixel) of resolution or more. Here's a look at the key features of digital cameras by category.
Point-and-shoot models
Point-and-shoot cameras are the most inexpensive type of digital camera. These basic cameras can do anything that a simple film camera can do. Most will have 2 to 3.2MP resolution; a built-in flash; some sort of removable storage; and either a fixed focal length, nonzooming lens (in the ultracompact models) or a modest 3:1 to 5:1 zoom that provides a little magnification. Expect automatic exposure and no manual controls.
Intermediate models
Intermediate digital cameras are the most widely used. As such, they have the best compromise of features to suit most consumer needs. Look for 3.2 to 5MP resolution; a 3:1 to 4:1 zoom lens; either CompactFlash or Secure Digital (SD) storage; and at least a few special options, such as different exposure modes, close-up focusing, or manual controls.
Advanced consumer models
If you're willing to spend a few hundred dollars more than most point-and-shoot or intermediate models, you might be interested in digital cameras with some special features, extra resolution, or a longer zoom lens. These are 4 to 6MP models with 4:1 to 10:1 zooms (or better) and plenty of add-on accessories, such as wide-angle and telephoto attachments, filters, external flash units, and more. You can also find lots of optional exposure modes and customizable settings. Advanced consumer cameras usually require a session or two with the instruction manual to master all their capabilities, but they have few limitations.
Prosumer models
Prosumer (falling between consumer- and professional-level) digital cameras are the models that photo buffs and even a few professional photographers favor. The avid photographer is willing to spend a few thousand dollars or more for these cameras in order to get the advanced features.
Pros find prosumer digital cameras useful as backup cameras, even if most aren't quite rugged enough to take the beating that professional equipment is subjected to.
Prosumer cameras feature an electronic or optical through-the-lens viewfinder that lets you evaluate and focus through the same lens used to take the picture. These cameras either have a good quality, fixed zoom lens (in the 8:1 to 10:1 magnification range) or, in some cases, take the same interchangeable lenses that film camera stablemates from the same vendor accept. You can expect a minimum of 5 to 6MP pixels in this category.
All other controls on a prosumer digital match or beat those found on conventional film cameras. You get automatic and manual focus as well as multiple automated exposure modes, plus manual shutter speed and lens opening settings if you want them.
About the only difference between high-priced prosumer digital cameras and professional digital cameras is the speed (professional cameras can usually snap off digital pictures at a 5-pictures-per-second clip; prosumer models might be limited to 2 to 3 pictures per second) and ruggedness.
Professional models
Professional digital SLR (single lens reflex) cameras cost up to tens of thousands of dollars and have both the pedigree and features to match. These high-end models are the equals of their film camera counterparts in almost every way. If you can't do it with one of these, it can't be done.
You'll find 6 to 14MP sensors in these cameras, and you can fit standard interchangeable lenses to them while retaining all the sophisticated autoexposure and autofocus modes of their film camera mates. One feature that professionals demand is speed. If you use a professional camera, you'll see just how this speed is applied: Lesser cameras are often hampered by a time lag between the time you press the shutter button and the instant when the picture is actually taken. Then, you might have to wait a second or two while the photo is saved to the storage media. Although some prosumer and advanced amateur digital cameras let you take another shot or two immediately, you're limited to two or three before you have to stop and wait for the storage to catch up.
On the other hand, with a professional camera, you can usually snap off pictures as quickly as you can press the shutter release or trigger the motor drive (continuous shot) mode. You might be able to snap off 5 pictures per second for as long as you like - or at least until the storage media fills up. That can be a long time, because professional digital cameras usually accept humongous storage options, such as 1GB (or larger) mini hard drives.
Source:
http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/getting-to-know-digital-camera-categories/153032
Photographers needed worldwide
Friday, June 27, 2008
Top Ten Digital Photography Tips
by Derrick Story, author of Digital Photography Pocket Guide, 3rd Edition
You've heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the photos. Isn't that right? Heck no!
The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It's not the camera that makes beautiful images; it's the photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.
To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card on all that expensive equipment).
1. Warm Up Those Tones
Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel to them? If so, you're not alone. The default white balance setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to be a bit on the "cool" side.
When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That's right, cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.
If you don't believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side. My guess is that you'll like the warmer image better.
2: Sunglasses Polarizer
If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.
What's that you say? Your digital camera can't accommodate filters. Don't despair. I've been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don't have the rims in the shot.
For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.
3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine
One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you've just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.
In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.
After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.
Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don't stand too far away when using fill flash outdoors.
4. Macro Mode Madness
Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.
These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin to explore your world in finer detail, you'll be rewarded with fresh new images unlike anything you've ever shot before.
Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And the best part is that it's so easy to do with digital cameras.
Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will allow. Once you've found something to your liking, hold the shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to record the image.
Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that's most important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.
5. Horizon Line Mayhem
For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.
Part of the problem is that your camera's optics introduce distortion when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but they seem to be bowing inward on your camera's monitor. No wonder photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.
What can you do? Well, there's no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.
First of all, be aware that it's important to capture your images as level as possible. If you're having difficulty framing the scene to your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will "feel right" when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the perfectly aligned image.
If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase dramatically.
6: Massive Media Card
When you're figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make sure you factor in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why? Because the cards included with your new high-tech wonder toy are about as satisfying as an airline bag of peanuts when you're dying of hunger.
If you have a 3 megapixel camera, get at least a 256MB card, 512MBs for 4 megapixel models, and 1GB for for 6 megapixels and up.
That way you'll never miss another shot because your memory card is full.
7: High Rez All the Way
One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is to enable you to shoot at your camera's highest resolution. If you paid a premium price for a 6 megapixel digicam, then get your money's worth and shoot at 6 megapixels. And while you're at it, shoot at your camera's highest quality compression setting too.
Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower resolution and low quality compression settings? Because you never know when you're going to capture the next great image of the 21st century. And if you take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution, that means you can only make a print about the size of a credit card, not exactly the right dimensions for hanging in the museum.
On the other hand, if you recorded the image at 2272 x 1704 (4 megapixels) or larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch photo-quality print suitable for framing or even for gracing the cover of Time magazine. And just in case you were able to get as close to the action as you had liked, having those extra pixels enables you to crop your image and still have enough resolution to make a decent sized print.
The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then there's no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the opportunity to show off your work in a big way.
8: Tolerable Tripod
I once overheard someone say, "He must be a real photographer because he's using a tripod." Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots though, these three-legged supports can be very useful.
The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are bulky, unwieldily, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase "necessary evil" come to mind?
For digital shooters there's good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and enables you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can open the legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a tabletop or a boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ its Velcro strap and attach your camera to an available pole or tree limb.
You might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else will work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a pod, and check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real photographer.
9: Self Timer Fun
Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can explore another under-used feature found on almost every digital camera: the self timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after the button has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age old problems in photography: the missing photographer.
Hey, just because you've been donned as the creative historian in your clan, that doesn't mean that your shining face should be absent from every frame of the family's pictorial accounting. You could hand your trusty digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then you take the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with your camera.
Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self timer, and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on the flash to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition (but remember that 10 foot flash range limit!). Also, make sure the focusing sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant background, or you'll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.
Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk? Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter using the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of the camera as you initiate the exposure.
10. Slow Motion Water
I come from a family where it's darn hard to impress them with my artsy pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister commented that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like paintings. That was close enough to a compliment for me.
What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs: slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice composition with running water, then forcing the camera's shutter to stay open for a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the water while all the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.
You'll need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and you probably should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you camera has an aperture priority setting, use it and set the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-16 if possible. This will give you greater depth of field and cause the shutter to slow down.
Ideally, you'll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright sunlight.
Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the scene and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus of eliminating distracting reflections from your composition.
Final Thoughts
Most digital cameras, even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a tremendous amount of functionality built into them. By applying a little ingenuity and creativity, you can take shots that will make viewers ask, "So what kind of camera do you have?"
You can tell them the answer, but inside, you'll know it's not the camera responsible for those great pictures. It's the photographer.
Mastering Digital Photography
Take Better Digital Photos
Edit Your Digital Photos Using Photoshop
Photography Posing Secrets
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Digital Photography Secrets
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Take Better Digital Photos
Derrick Story is the digital media evangelist for O'Reilly. His current book is The Digital Photography Companion. You can follow him on Twitter or visit www.thedigitalstory.com.
Source:
http://www.macdevcenter.com/pub/a/mac/2002/10/22/digi_photo_tips.html
Photographers needed worldwide
You've heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the photos. Isn't that right? Heck no!
The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It's not the camera that makes beautiful images; it's the photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.
To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card on all that expensive equipment).
1. Warm Up Those Tones
Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel to them? If so, you're not alone. The default white balance setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to be a bit on the "cool" side.
When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That's right, cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.
If you don't believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side. My guess is that you'll like the warmer image better.
2: Sunglasses Polarizer
If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.
What's that you say? Your digital camera can't accommodate filters. Don't despair. I've been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don't have the rims in the shot.
For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.
3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine
One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you've just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.
In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.
After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.
Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don't stand too far away when using fill flash outdoors.
4. Macro Mode Madness
Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.
These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin to explore your world in finer detail, you'll be rewarded with fresh new images unlike anything you've ever shot before.
Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And the best part is that it's so easy to do with digital cameras.
Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will allow. Once you've found something to your liking, hold the shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to record the image.
Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that's most important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.
5. Horizon Line Mayhem
For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.
Part of the problem is that your camera's optics introduce distortion when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but they seem to be bowing inward on your camera's monitor. No wonder photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.
What can you do? Well, there's no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.
First of all, be aware that it's important to capture your images as level as possible. If you're having difficulty framing the scene to your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will "feel right" when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the perfectly aligned image.
If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase dramatically.
6: Massive Media Card
When you're figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make sure you factor in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why? Because the cards included with your new high-tech wonder toy are about as satisfying as an airline bag of peanuts when you're dying of hunger.
If you have a 3 megapixel camera, get at least a 256MB card, 512MBs for 4 megapixel models, and 1GB for for 6 megapixels and up.
That way you'll never miss another shot because your memory card is full.
7: High Rez All the Way
One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is to enable you to shoot at your camera's highest resolution. If you paid a premium price for a 6 megapixel digicam, then get your money's worth and shoot at 6 megapixels. And while you're at it, shoot at your camera's highest quality compression setting too.
Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower resolution and low quality compression settings? Because you never know when you're going to capture the next great image of the 21st century. And if you take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution, that means you can only make a print about the size of a credit card, not exactly the right dimensions for hanging in the museum.
On the other hand, if you recorded the image at 2272 x 1704 (4 megapixels) or larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch photo-quality print suitable for framing or even for gracing the cover of Time magazine. And just in case you were able to get as close to the action as you had liked, having those extra pixels enables you to crop your image and still have enough resolution to make a decent sized print.
The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then there's no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the opportunity to show off your work in a big way.
8: Tolerable Tripod
I once overheard someone say, "He must be a real photographer because he's using a tripod." Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots though, these three-legged supports can be very useful.
The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are bulky, unwieldily, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase "necessary evil" come to mind?
For digital shooters there's good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and enables you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can open the legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a tabletop or a boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ its Velcro strap and attach your camera to an available pole or tree limb.
You might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else will work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a pod, and check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real photographer.
9: Self Timer Fun
Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can explore another under-used feature found on almost every digital camera: the self timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after the button has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age old problems in photography: the missing photographer.
Hey, just because you've been donned as the creative historian in your clan, that doesn't mean that your shining face should be absent from every frame of the family's pictorial accounting. You could hand your trusty digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then you take the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with your camera.
Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self timer, and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on the flash to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition (but remember that 10 foot flash range limit!). Also, make sure the focusing sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant background, or you'll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.
Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk? Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter using the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of the camera as you initiate the exposure.
10. Slow Motion Water
I come from a family where it's darn hard to impress them with my artsy pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister commented that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like paintings. That was close enough to a compliment for me.
What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs: slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice composition with running water, then forcing the camera's shutter to stay open for a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the water while all the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.
You'll need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and you probably should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you camera has an aperture priority setting, use it and set the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-16 if possible. This will give you greater depth of field and cause the shutter to slow down.
Ideally, you'll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright sunlight.
Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the scene and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus of eliminating distracting reflections from your composition.
Final Thoughts
Most digital cameras, even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a tremendous amount of functionality built into them. By applying a little ingenuity and creativity, you can take shots that will make viewers ask, "So what kind of camera do you have?"
You can tell them the answer, but inside, you'll know it's not the camera responsible for those great pictures. It's the photographer.
Mastering Digital Photography
Take Better Digital Photos
Edit Your Digital Photos Using Photoshop
Photography Posing Secrets
Digital Photography Success
Digital Photography Secrets
Learn Digital Photography Now
Take Better Digital Photos
Derrick Story is the digital media evangelist for O'Reilly. His current book is The Digital Photography Companion. You can follow him on Twitter or visit www.thedigitalstory.com.
Source:
http://www.macdevcenter.com/pub/a/mac/2002/10/22/digi_photo_tips.html
Photographers needed worldwide
Ignore Digital Zoom
SUMMARY: When buying digital cameras, concentrate on optical zoom, not digital zoom.
Although many salespeople would disagree, when choosing a digital camera to purchase, I would completely ignore advertised digital zoom magnifications and only look at cameras' optical zooms. Digital zooming performs an interpolation, or computer-based 'guesswork', of an image to try to increase the perceived zoom distance. These can result in "fuzzy" images or those with less than optimal clarity, especially if you blow them up into 8x10 or larger photos. However, optical zoom provides for a true zoom-in or zoom-out on your subject.
If you want an example of what a photograph may look like when taken with a digital zoom, take a photograph into a piece of photo-editing software and increase its size by 100% or 200%. Although the picture will look bigger on screen, you will start to see dots or imperfections in the image. That's what happens with digital zoom.
Higher optical zoom cameras can allow you to take a greater variety of pictures, but they do tend to cost more money, which is why lower-priced cameras tend to advertise their digital zoom capabilities a lot more. However, for many photographers, the enhanced image quality is well worth the higher price.
Proven Ways to Make Money Online
Source:
http://malektips.com/buying_digital_camera_0002.html
Photographers needed worldwide
Although many salespeople would disagree, when choosing a digital camera to purchase, I would completely ignore advertised digital zoom magnifications and only look at cameras' optical zooms. Digital zooming performs an interpolation, or computer-based 'guesswork', of an image to try to increase the perceived zoom distance. These can result in "fuzzy" images or those with less than optimal clarity, especially if you blow them up into 8x10 or larger photos. However, optical zoom provides for a true zoom-in or zoom-out on your subject.
If you want an example of what a photograph may look like when taken with a digital zoom, take a photograph into a piece of photo-editing software and increase its size by 100% or 200%. Although the picture will look bigger on screen, you will start to see dots or imperfections in the image. That's what happens with digital zoom.
Higher optical zoom cameras can allow you to take a greater variety of pictures, but they do tend to cost more money, which is why lower-priced cameras tend to advertise their digital zoom capabilities a lot more. However, for many photographers, the enhanced image quality is well worth the higher price.
Proven Ways to Make Money Online
Source:
http://malektips.com/buying_digital_camera_0002.html
Photographers needed worldwide
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